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I am in Bolivia where I have encountered people happy to accommodate my appalling Spanish. I have met people who smile when most others would cry. I have even found someone willing to learn the rules of cricket. In a country that has, ostensibly, so little, I have found so much.
I arrived in Bolivia in mid-July, flying into the world's highest capital city of La Paz (3665m) and then travelling down reputedly the "world's most dangerous" or "most beautiful" road, depending on your preferred euphemism. I try to focus on the latter.
My destination was the small village of Carmen Pampa, not far from the town of Coroico. Carmen Pampa contains a most remarkable and audacious project to combat poverty.
The Unidad Academica Campesina - Carmen Pampa (UAC - CP) is a branch of the Catholic University of Bolivia and was established in 1993. It is directed by the Franciscan Missionaries of the Immaculate Conception, an order of female religious who also have an Australian presence.
The aim of the university is to combat poverty through education. The people of the region believe only through educating their children can they ensure real improvement in the economy and true relief from the injustice and scourge of poverty.
The university offers agronomy, education, nursing and veterinary science for more than 500 students. A fifth subject, tourism, will be offered next year.
One of the hallmarks of its education is the impeccably high standards of work expected from students. As an Australian undergraduate law student I am astounded at the rigour of the program.
On top of the large amount of contact hours for their chosen subject, students are also required to undertake classes in religion and English as well as 20 hours of community work a month, which might involve maintenance or work on building projects in the university.
Students are obliged to complete a thesis in their final year of studies, the quality of which has been commented on by visiting professors as rivalling that of postgraduate studies. The exacting standard of work produced at the university reflects the fact that poverty takes no prisoners and can be addressed only with an unrelenting commitment.
The United Nations recognised the achievements of the university in 2003 when it was deemed one of the best projects in the world for the eradication of poverty, and the only university to be recognised as such.
But to reach graduation, students often face many obstacles other than the challenging curriculum. Tuition fees are about US$100 per semester, an enormous sum for most Bolivians. A food cooperative has been established for students most in need, which provides basic meals for US$12 a month. But this project can cater for only 200-odd students because of funding restrictions; many others remain in need and go without.
The poverty in Carmen Pampa is insidious, unlike in the streets of La Paz where the infirm and destitute are painfully clear. Those struggling to obtain the basic necessities of life here are often less obvious. This is a university, and like most universities it is dominated by young people, most of whom could be counted as my contemporaries.
And like any young person in Canberra, they want to be popular and attractive. You don't see students begging, you see them smiling, playing soccer or talking to friends, and looking not too different from any other student.
Several students are selected to conduct work in the surrounding area, reflecting the university's aim to improve the community, not just the students. I had the privilege of accompanying one student during her community work.
Sonia Paredes Chavez, 20, an education student, makes the two-hour walk to the community of Coroico Viejo four days a fortnight to teach children with intellectual and physical disabilities.
We left early in the morning and trekked down the large sub-tropical valley that dominates the area. We visited numerous homes and I was repeatedly taken aback at the overwhelmingly generous hospitality of these people who had so little.
We stayed for some time with the family of Virginia, a nine year old afflicted with physical and intellectual disabilities. While I was waited on hand and foot by the girl's parents, I marvelled at Virginia´s adopted brother, Dayman, also nine, as he repeatedly jumped from a tree and then ran to check on his sister, all for her amusement.
Her smile and laugh were contagious. I soon forgot that she was couched not in a moulded plastic chair suited to her needs, but a wooden box furnished with a blanket.
After several house calls, Sonia showed me the Coroico Viejo goat project. Established by the university, the project's primary aim is to provide work and income for students as well as being a minor commercial enterprise for the benefit of the community. I enjoyed a glass of warm, sweetened goat's milk while the goats enjoyed my shoelaces. The milk was delicious; it was a fair swap.
My contribution to the university has consisted primarily of teaching two English classes and assisting pastoral coordinator Sr Jean Morrissey to plan and run youth ministry retreats and weekly meetings for students.
Excitingly, I have just begun to assist in the development of an overseas volunteer program that will offer students the opportunity to serve others with their newly gained skills. One possibility will be a joint program with the Franciscan Missionaries in Papua New Guinea.
The entire budget of the university, which is overwhelmingly derived from donations, runs at around US$500,000 a year, an incredibly small amount considering what is achieved here.
Anyone wishing to support the work can contact the Carmen Pampa Fund based in Minnesota at franrm(at)carmenpampafund(dot)org or visit the fund website at www.carmenpampafund.org
Nathan Kensey nathankensey(at)hotmail(dot)com
Nathan Kensey with education student Donato Abelino Cari at the university in the tiny village of Carmen Pampa, part of a remarkable project to combat poverty.
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This article originally written in October 2005.
